Craig in Amsterdam with Jim

Saturday, June 15, 2002

In the morning, Geoff flew back to SF while Jim and I trained to Amsterdam. We almost missed our train, dashing down the track and getting on, only to find we had to get on another part of the train farther down the track in order to go all the way to Amsterdam. But it worked out all right. After we arrived, we put our luggage in lockers and walked through the lively streets with their lovely canals, and ate at a simple Thai restaurant my guidebook had recommended. We giggled at the college- age kids who were clearly stoned, asking the waitress for rice with peanut sauce, nothing else. After lunch we got our stuff and took the tram to our hotel, the Van Ostade Bicyclehotel. The proprietor was very laid back, with a slow style of speaking - seemed very Dutch.

After checking into the hotel, we took the tram back to the center of town to find a restaurant, ending up with Thai food again. We got into a bit of conversation with some young Flemish girls at the table next to us, which was fun. After dinner we explored the bars a bit, ending up at a bar / dance club called the Cock Ring, where I met a guy named Michael, who's from Dortmund, Germany, but lives in Amsterdam (working for an American company). Michael lives near our hotel, and he gave me a ride back there on the back of his bicycle. It felt like I'd definitely arrived in Amsterdam. Michael and I exchanged numbers to meet up again.

Sunday, June 16, 2002

We rented bikes today and for the rest of our stay in Amsterdam. We started the day by heading to the Van Gogh museum, but we enjoyed bicycling so much in the perfect, cool weather, that we rode around and through the Vondelpark a while first. Bicycling in Amsterdam is a real joy, makes me feel like part of the city, and is so mellow with these comfortable Dutch one-speed bikes with coaster brakes, and positioned so you sit upright. Here we are with our bikes at a typically crowded bike parking area:

We did eventually make it to the Van Gogh museum, which was nice, small, and well-organized. Afterward we had lunch at a little outdoor cafe that felt very authentically Dutch, with its low prices and menu only in Dutch (very rare in Amsterdam). The wait staff was very helpful in translating, and we had a good meal. After checking out a sauna, which was in a nice space, but pretty empty, we had dinner at a Lebanese restaurant, with a very friendly owner and good food. We were a bit surprised, however, by their British- made, recent map of Lebanon on the wall, which refered to Israel as Palistine, and showed only the Palistinian cities, completely omitting the Jewish population centers.

After dinner we went to a club called De Trut, which had been recommended by my friend Noah Enteen, and which Michael said he'd be at, too. It's like nothing I've seen before. The small club is only open once a week, and in order to get in, you have to line up before they open at 11. If you get there after 10:45, it'll probably be too crowded and you won't get in. The cover charge was 1 or 2 euros, and drinks are about the same price. The building was taken over by squatters years ago, and the club is run as a nonprofit, donating proceeds to queer-oriented charities. The crowd was very local and friendly, and the videos were creative, including images of swimming elephants. Jim and I were very impressed with the ethnic mix here and in Amsterdam in general. Not only are there people of all colors from all over the world, but they are much more socially integrated than in the U.S. Michael was there with his roommate Michel and some other friends, and we chatted with them and with some other people we met. I was struck by the Dutch dislike of Germans. Michael told me he uses English in all his social interactions, although many people can speak German. (He doesn't speak Dutch.) He says people are much friendlier when he uses English instead of German, because of continuting resentment from World War II and the occupation. His (Dutch) roommate Michel said he felt a bit awkward when Michael's parents visited, and they spoke German with everyone, which makes people uncomfortable. The roommate said, "we want German people to speak English". It's as if the Dutch demand that the Germans deny their heritage and pretend to be miscellaneously international. On one hand I find this extreme, but it I am sympathetic when I think about the fact that the Germans forced Dutch people to learn German, and so now when they come here and expect to be understood in German, it brings up those resentments. Whereas the same behavior in English bothers no one. (A Dutch woman in a shop refused to tell Jim how to say "thank you" in Dutch. She said better to use English than to butcher her language.)

Monday, June 17, 2002

Today was extremely hot. I went shopping for some clothes at my favorite store: H & M, while Jim took a walking tour of old Jewish Amsterdam, which he enjoyed. After my shopping I walked around the big market on Albert Cuyp Straat and had an excellent herring sandwich. We had a mellow day. For dinner we had a simple Indonesian meal.

Tuesday, June 18, 2002

After a good Javanese-Chinese lunch, Jim took an afternoon train to Paris, stayed with Jean-Francois, and then flew home from there on the 19th. (Actually, there was an aiport strike that day, so his flight from Paris was cancelled and he took the Eurostar train to London and flew home from there.) I went to the Anne Frank Haus, which was well worthwhile. I was impressed with the way they related the lessons to modern times, with an exhibit which allowed you to vote on whether or not you think a particular individual or movement should be restricted for its hateful or discriminatory effects. I had an excellent Indonesian dinner, then took an overnight train to Berlin, which was more comfortable than I expected, with bunks 3- high.

Go on to Part 4: Craig in Germany with his mom

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