Craig and Geoff in Mimizan, France with Laurent and Jean

Monday, June 3, 2002

We arrived in Paris in the afternoon, and found a nice spot to relax:

After snacking on crepes, we took a train to Bordeaux, then La Bouheyre, arriving at 10pm, where we were met by our friend Laurent, whom we had met when he visited New York last year. Here he is with one of his paintings:

Laurent drove us back to the house he and Jean share, which has no address; it's just identified as one of the houses in the little neighborhood of "Petitjean" outside of the town of Mimizan. Here's Jean on the hammock in the middle of their living room:

We had a yummy macrobiotic meal of rice, beans, etc., with the obligatory excellent French wine and cheese.

Tuesday, June 4, 2002

We relaxed, slept in, and went for a walk on the beach and through the woods of Mimizan Plage with Laurent. Lunch was Jean's magret de canard (lean grilled duck, a south-western speciality. And of course, wine and cheese remained part of every meal. Here's the view of the garden from the room we slept in:

Wednesday, June 5, 2002

Craig-
It still wasn't sunny outside, but at least it wasn't raining. So I rented a bicycle, but Geoff decided not to join me. I started out on a paved path through the woods going south along the coast:

But then I saw a very inviting little mountain bike path branch off a bit, so I took that. It was paved with old stones, as you can see here:

The riding was easy, beautiful, and fun, and I saw almost no one else. The paved path I started on would have taken me to a town where I could have lunch, but I didn't know where this stone path would lead. Eventually, I ended up in a little tiny town, and kept following bike paths to the next town or two. I started having fantasies of continuing my ride all the way to Spain, but I also started getting hungry, and the few stores I saw were closed from 12-2 for lunch. So I turned around in Saint Julien en Born and took a different paved path, following signs for my original beach town destination, where I did find an open snack bar. I sat on the beach and devoured my sandwich, then rode back to Mimizan Plage, returned the bike, and got picked up by Geoff, Laurent and Jean.

Thursday, June 6, 2002

Inspired by our wine and the lack of beach weather, the four of us took a day trip to the ancient wine- making town of Saint Emilion near Bordeaux. Here you see Craig in the foreground and Jean and Laurent down below, with vineyards between us:

Here's a panorama of the whole town, from several photos put together:

Above you can see Geoff in front of the church that dominates the town, and below Craig is closer to it:

Its largest room is carved out of the mountain under it, with modern metal supports to prevent the columns from buckling under the weight of the church tower above:

And below the church are the catacombs, which had this shaft in the ceiling to let the spirits escape to heaven (originally open to the sky):

After an excellent lunch in a sidewalk cafe we visited the champagne-maker Cuvee Saint-Jean des Cordeliers (since this isn't in the Champagne region, they can't officiall call it champagne, so it's called cremant). The champagne is fermented in underground caves from the 14th century. You can see us in front of the entrance, and the inside of the caves below:

Next we paid a surprise visit to Laurent's parents, who live in Bordeaux. They were very sweet, inviting us in for a bottle of white wine (since we'd already sampled a lot of red) and good conversation. Then we drove into the center of Bordeaux and had dinner at a middle-eastern restaurant on a plaza by a church tower. I really enjoyed the neighborhood. The buildings had an old beauty, and the people were largely immigrants; no tourists. Here's the church tower by day and by night:

  

After dinner we walked through Bordeax a bit. Here Craig is posing for a picture in front of an old city gate. There was a garbage truck passing by, and one of the workers stuck his fingers out in rabbit ears, as you can see on the far right side of the photo:

We had to take a picture of this restaurant, whose name means, "Too beautiful for you"

And here is a streetlight in front of a statue on a pedastal:

On our way back to Mimizan, we stopped to climb a huge sand dune by moonlight; the biggest in Europe. The views from the top of the ocean and nearby towns was lovely. By the time we got back to the house, we all collapsed into bed.

Friday, June 7, 2002

We had hoped to have a day in the sun on the beach, but this, our last day in Mimizan, still wasn't warm enough. So after unsuccessfully looking for a gym to work out in, we decided to rent a rowboat on a lake, but then it started raining. So instead we went for a walk into Mimizan and explored a bit, which was nice, although wet. Meanwhile, Laurent picked up a new online friend at the train station, and the five of us had dinner together: excellent homemade Vietnamese food he'd brought from his parents' home in Paris. We followed dinner with chocolate and cognac, and then Laurent convinced us to go to the beach for a midnight plunge. We shared a bottle of champagne on the cold, windy beach, then Jean and Geoff held our stuff while the rest of us stripped naked and ran into the cold ocean. Aaaaahhh! (Sorry, no photos.) As we dressed and prepared to leave it started to rain.

Saturday, June 8, 2002

We slept in once more, then took an afternoon train to Paris, where we met our friend Jim, who was napping after his flight from SF at the apartment we'd rented near the Louvre.

Go on to Part 2: The two of us in Paris with Jim and Marc

Return to our European trip page